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March 1, 2022

63: Sweater Vocab

63: Sweater Vocab

This week's episode is all about vocabulary - we're going in deep on sweaters!


From neck to hem, cuff to cuff, we're pulling apart the sweater and learning how to refer to all the little pieces they're made of.

Pattern links for examples of design elements

NECKS:

SLEEVES:

HEMS:

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Transcript

Karen 00:07 Hi, and welcome to Make Good, the podcast about yarn and knitting from Scratch Supply Co. We're recording today in downtown Lebanon, New Hampshire, and we're really excited to be here. I'm Karen.

Jessica 00:15 And I'm Jessica.

Karen 00:17 Should we talk about sweaters today?

Jessica 00:19 Absolutely.

Karen 00:21 So a little while ago, we did an episode where we talked about vocabulary for socks. And today we're going to talk about some vocabulary for sweaters.

Jessica 00:28 We sure are. There are so many stylistic names for the components of a sweater. Some you might be really familiar with, but some are a little bit more mysterious, maybe. So we're going to try and break that down a little bit for you to help you make informed choices about the types of sweaters you might want to knit for yourself or for someone else.

Karen 00:51 If you're on, for example, Ravelry, it's really helpful to have ideas for what the different vocabulary words around sweaters are because it helps you make informed choices about the patterns that you're knitting. It helps you find patterns that you're interested in knitting. It helps you avoid things that you maybe did once and never want to do again. And as you may remember from our Stock Vocabulary episode, this is a quiz. There are points. If you know a term, you get ten points. And if you're learning a new term, you get ten points for learning a new term.

Jessica 01:24 Build your knitter vocabulary. Karen just mentioned Ravelry, and I want to make a quick note for you all about what's going to be in the Show Notes this week. Today, we're not going to rattle off a million names of patterns for you, but in the Show Notes, there will be a list. So when we talk about different necklines, there will be a link to a pattern on Ravelry that is the most popular. And I don't mean like everybody loves it the most, just the most project uploads to Ravelry of finished sweaters that people have knit. So that way you can say, I want to know what a ballet neck sweater looks like. The pattern that we're going to link to is the pattern that had the most projects for that specific ballet neck sweater. So you can look through it and see the different stylistic choices people make when they knit the project or how they choose to wear it. So that's just a little bit of information that you'll find in the Show Notes today.

Karen 02:17 Oh, speaking of Show notes, can we real quick do a housekeeping item?

Jessica 02:22 Let's do it.

Karen 02:22 We have transcripts now. Yay. We're going to be working backward. The service that we're using has sort of a cap on the number of minutes you can do per month. All the episodes going forward will have associated transcripts, and we'll be working backward through our catalog to make the show a little bit more accessible.

Jessica 02:40 It's very exciting, and it's fun to see if the robots can tell us apart.

Karen 02:44 The robots pretty good at telling us apart. I will tell you, the first episode that we did was last week, which was sticking, and we got a lot of sticking and staking. There was another one, too, but I can't remember. But it tried. The robot can't knit. 

Jessica 03:05 Okay, back to sweaters. Let's jump in.

Karen 03:07 As we're talking about these, they're sort of endless combinations. Most of these design elements can be combined with most of these other design elements. It's just infinite. Infinite combinations, infinite options.

Jessica 03:19 Plug and play. Mix up your pattern.

Karen 03:23 So what are the two main categories of sweater?

Jessica 03:26 Okay, so all sweaters, no matter what they're called, are a version of one of these two options. They are either a pullover, which is a knit garment that you wear on your torso. Look, this is vocab. We're like down to bare bones basics, because we're all coming at this from different points.

Karen 03:46 Oh, for sure. I was just thinking. I have ten points already. Yeah. So proud.

Jessica 03:52 So it's this knit garment that you wear on your torso, and the only way to get it on your body is to pull it on over your head. It's a pullover.

Karen 04:00 I just want you to know that I'm wildly running through visuals of sweaters in my head, trying to find an exception to the every single sweater is a variation on this, and somebody is going to email us with like a Snead or something.

Jessica 04:12 I double dare you.

Karen 04:13 Please do so.

Jessica 04:16 Pull overs can have any sleevel, but when we think of a pullover as a sweater, we typically think of them worn with long sleeves. But that's not Canon. It's not a hard rule. It's an option. And sometimes, depending on where you live, pullovers are also called jumpers. Correct. I have ten points. Notes. Your other option for sweater type, if you don't want to pull over, is a cardigan. The best sweater. My favorite sweater cardigans are also knit garments. Sidebar all of these can also be crocheted, but we're talking about knitting today. Knit garments worn on your torso that have an open front so you slip your arms into it instead of pulling it on over your head. So I have to say that I often leave my favorite cardigan buttoned and I just pull it on over my head. I never unbutton it.

Karen 05:05 Okay, wait. Sidebar question, because these can all be crocheted. Can you sew a sweater?

Jessica 05:12 Yes, you can sew a sweater because you can purchase knit fabric.

Karen 05:16 Of course, because if you're buying a sweater from JCPenney.

Jessica 05:20 It might have sewn seams and it might have been cut from knit fabric. So cardigans. Same situation with the sleeves. They can kind of be anything. But the open front has options. It might be able to close. So you could have buttons or snaps. You could pop a zipper in there. You could have some other closure, like those cute little frog clasps or use a shell pin or something. Alternately, nothing at all by design or by laziness, you could have no closures on your cardigan. I definitely have those.

Karen 05:51 So what about construction?

Jessica 05:53 So magically sweaters, these low key, complicated, three dimensional objects can be knit in any direction. You can knit a sweater from the top down, which lots of people love because it's really easy to try on the garment as you go. It can also be knit bottom up, which means you're knitting three separate tubes, your sleeves and your body, and you're joining them at some point. You can also knit sweaters from sleeve cuff to sleeve cuff, which gives you perpendicular directional fabric from what you're used to seeing and has usually cute and interesting construction when you find sweaters that are in it from sleeve to sleeve. But for today's purposes, since we have to start somewhere going through the anatomy of the sweater, we are just going to start at the neck and work our way down construction wise. But this is not necessarily a comment on how sweaters can be or should be constructed. We just had to pick a geographic starting point on the garment. So we're going to start with necks and collar openings today.

Karen 06:55 So talking about the different shapes that your sweater neck can have, I think that's one of those things that even before you start knitting, you think about, I love Vnex sweaters or I hate Vneck sweaters. That is a feature that whether you have the vocabulary for it or not, you're probably already considering and making your choices. Absolutely.

Jessica 07:16 Having that shaping so close to your face, I think, gives people really strong feelings about how a garment will look on them and how it will feel when you're wearing it. Your hemline, I think, is often less of a consideration in the overall. Am I ever going to wear this sweater? Thought Process the neckline is super important.

Karen 07:37 So probably, I'm going to say the most basic, the most platonic ideal of a sweater ubiquitous neckline is the crewneck sweater.

Jessica 07:49 Crewnecks fit close up to your neck. It might be Super, super tight to your neckline. It might be a little bit more open, but it's like a circle right around the base of your neck. You might be most familiar with this term with a crew neck T shirt. Your most generic basic T shirt shape has a crew neck. The edging on a crew neck sweater most commonly has ribbon. It could be one by one, it could be two by two. But it's to maintain that close fitting round shape. And you'll see this really commonly in ready to wear sweaters. Many, many, many things on the rack have a crew neck.

Karen 08:24 The other one we were just talking about was the V neck sweater, which generally only in the front of your sweater will have a V shape. And sometimes it has ribbon, sometimes it doesn't. Depending on the styling of the sweater. This was what I was thinking of when I said usually one kind of collar per sweater, specifically Jackie Seizelax Rift.

Jessica 08:43 Aha, she's crafty.

Karen 08:47 Yeah. So first she gives you the option to do a full crew neck. So it would just be crew neck all the way around the sweater. She gives you an option to do what you would consider a regular Vneck, where it's sort of the crew neck style in the back, which is on most V necks. Or she gives you the option, which she doesn't recommend, to do the V shape on both the front and the back. And then she lets you choose which one of those sides is the front and which is the back. So you might choose to do a Vneck and then put that between your shoulder blades and have the crew neck in the front. It's kind of neat to see people like modularly combining patterns.

Jessica 09:23 She does that with a couple of other patterns, too, where there are different neckline options, like the star cross sweater could be a boat neck or a cowl neck.

Karen 09:31 We don't know those words yet. Oh, well, stick your fingers in your ears. What about, like a scoop neck? This is where things start to get iffy for me, because there's a lot of gradations of, like, circle Oval.

Jessica 09:46 There sure are kind of a shocking number. And by the way, this is not a comprehensive list. These are just some of the most common design elements. There are way more necklines than what we're going to cover today. So a scoop neck is shaped similarly to a crew neck, but the hole is bigger. It's a rounded open neck. And the distinction, I think, are we crew neck? Are we scoop neck is the scoop neck shows your collar bone so it's open wide enough that your collarbone is visible and exposed.

Karen 10:19 I'm wildly complicating these categories in my head and just thinking a lot of this is going to depend on where the designer draws lines between these different types. Also, like, if you're trying to find a sweater that is a scoop neck, maybe your designer has very low set collarbones or something is possible. And so she's like, oh, this is a crew neck on me. I'm going to call it a crew neck, but it would fit as a scoop neck on you. The lines are hazy.

Jessica 10:45 The lines are real hazy. And sometimes patterns are double tagged. So it's a scoop neck. It's a crew neck. I don't know. I'm tagging it with both, and then it gets swept up in double sets of search results. So it's fashion people. This is art. It's not science.

Karen 11:01 Ok. So what about a turtleneck or a mock turtleneck? Because this is another one. I was forced into a lot of machine knit turtlenecks as a small child. I was, too.

Jessica 11:13 I feel like I have turtleneck trauma. I had a lot of them. And I do not love them. So turtlenecks or mock turtlenecks are a tall, extended tube. The turtleneck proper is tall enough that it can be folded over or you could let it roll, but also you could wear it slouched, which I like to think is a little nod 80s slouch sock fashion. Mock turtlenecks are a close fitting neck tube on your sweater that are less tall. So about halfway up your neck and it's probably going to be ribbed, so it has a close fit. We are totally letting all of our own neck feelings just out into the universe this morning.

Karen 11:57 So if it's slouchy, is that kind of like a cowl neck? What's the line?

Jessica 12:02 Is there a line art fashion? I think that there is kind of a distinction, though. It's one of those things. When you see it, you know what you would classify it as, like a slouchy turtleneck is still on your neck and it's just kind of Bunchy. Your neck is seven inches long and that turtleneck is 13 inches long, but it's still close fitting to you. So it's just like scrunched down like a scrunchie sock.

Karen 12:26 What?

Jessica 12:28 Karen looks upset.

Karen 12:29 Would you not fold it over in that situation?

Jessica 12:31 Not if you're a lounge person. You could fold it over, but this is fashion. But a cowl neck, which is like a cousin to the turtleneck. The tube for your neck is a lot looser. The actual neck opening isn't maybe coming from a crew neck point. It's coming from a scoop neck point. You've got the wider opening and this bigger tube that you can't make it stand up over your face because it's bigger and slouchier and just kind of falls open down onto your chest. So cowl necks are like the relaxed fit version of a turtleneck.

Karen 13:05 What about some of the fiddlier shapes, like boat neck or ballet neck?

Jessica 13:10 Let's start with ballet neck because much like a cowl neck, I know it when I see it. I know what a ballet neck looks like, but I didn't know why it was called a ballet neck, so I had to look it up. This is coming from someone who never took a dance class of any sort as a child, so hadn't really thought this through, but ballet necks are open necklines that mimic the design feature the scooping front and back neck openings of dance leotards. Oh, sure, it's wide and maybe low. They're not always shaped the same. Sometimes they're closer, but it's scooping on both sides as the top of a dance Lee at hardwood. That's why they're called ballet necks. Who knew?

Karen 13:52 Okay, so then the boat neck.

Jessica 13:53 I'm a big fan of the boat neck. I like a boat neck sweater or shirt. Boatnecks are wide necklines and they often run from shoulder to shoulder. You'll frequently find them in sweaters that are constructed by seaming front and back panels together. Less often are you casting on top down a gigantically wide neckline for your sweater. Karen just looked slowly down at her shoulder. I think I would call it you're wearing a ballet neck.

Karen 14:24 I would call this a boat neck. I'm wearing Isabel Kramer's Minecraft sweater. And I was just thinking like, this is that hazy line, right. I would definitely call this a boat neck because it doesn't get much below my collarbones and it's wide enough to show my bra straps. So in my mind, that would be a boat neck. This is totally top down, whichever side of the line we've decided this falls on. And I was just checking to see if I had seamed the tops of these shoulders and just didn't remember doing it. And I'm pretty sure this was top down.

Jessica 14:52 I think it was top down.

Karen 14:54 Yeah. It can get a little hazy between those two categories. Okay, so you've gotten through your neck. We're assuming you're knitting a top down sweater here.

Jessica 15:02 And really, you could knit bottom up, too, or just traveling south.

Karen 15:06 We've done necks. What about, like, the shoulders and the upper body shaping?

Jessica 15:11 So this is where there's lots of other construction stuff going on in your sweater once you get into bodies. We're really talking tubes with real fine distinctions here. The upper body and shoulders are where your yolk shaping and your sleeves are determined. So there are some fairly common options here that we're going to talk you through, and then all sorts of fiddly weird exceptions that aren't getting covered in today's vocabulary quiz.

Karen 15:38 Ten points per thing. Get your scorecard out. One design element that I think has become really popular over the last decade or so is the circular yolk. It's really popular because it works really well with color work, which is fun to knit. Yes.

Jessica 15:53 In a circular yolk, your neck and your sleeves are seamlessly joined and your increases if you're working top down or your decreases if you're working bottom up, are evenly distributed throughout that section of the sweater, which is one of the things that makes it really well suited to color work or cables or other texture, because you can calculate out the placement of those things and you're not running into a funny section where there's like a whole bunch of clustered decreases or increases. So those great color work sweaters where there's, like, color work running across your shoulders and through your chest, those are generally circular yoke sweaters.

Karen 16:33 Ok, I have a confession. I was really unclear on what a Ragland was for. Like, what day is it today? February 20 until February 15. Well, first you should say what Ragland is, and then I will say what I thought it was. Okay.

Jessica 16:54 So Raglands are really popular and ready to wear. And in knitwear, the Ragland is the sleeve construction where you have a diagonal seam running from your armpit up to your collarbone, like at the neckline. And this style of sweater is really relaxed through that section. So it makes it very comfortable to wear because there's not hard seams or tightness wrapping around underneath your armpit or something like. It's a very physically forgiving style of sweater to wear. You'll see a lot of sweatshirts where there's the angular line and there's different color sleeves from the sweatshirt body. Yes, those are those Ragland line distinctions in this diagonal seam. The number of stitches, whatever number it is in your design, doesn't change, but increases if you're knitting top down, for example, are happening on either side of those. In the show notes, we'll give you a link to Tin Can Nitz's Flax Sweater, which has a really classic Raglan line. And in the actual pattern, they have a nice little diagram showing the opened Raglan top, so you can see where those lines exist.

Karen 18:05 So for the longest time, I just thought the Raglan was the part of your sweater where you got to the sleeves.

Jessica 18:12 Like, however you did.

Karen 18:14 It no specific technique. Just whatever happened between the cast on and the sleeve to make the sleeves exist. And so I was really baffled by why designers would tag Raglan.

Jessica 18:26 Oh, sure.

Karen 18:27 Because I was like, of course.

Jessica 18:31 Somehow you have reached a sleeve and it might have been with a rag.

Karen 18:36 It might have been with a Raglan. Raglands are something people have really strong feelings about. I believe that because you say they're comfortable to wear. This probably depends a lot on, like, the kind of clothes you wear when you're not wearing hand knits and what you're comfortable in and how your body is shaped and all kinds of things. There are people who say they really dislike the way Raglan's hang.

Jessica 18:55 I can see that it's a more relaxed fit. And if you like your clothing to be more structured, it might feel kind of grumpy.

Karen 19:02 And if you would prefer to never have a button touch your body, ever, because structured clothing doesn't have the pajama feel that you want in your life. And that's me, by the way. I'm talking about me, then Raglans are definitely the way to go.

Jessica 19:14 So cozy, if that's your jam.

Karen 19:18 Opposite of a Raglan.

Jessica 19:19 Saddle Shoulder Saddle shoulders have, like, a panel or a strip of knitting that goes from your neckline to the top of your shoulder. I've only knit saddle shoulders once, and it was in one of my weirdest projects. My Pen Guano has saddle shoulders.

Karen 19:37 That makes sense because the saddle shoulder is very structured, and that's a heavy, large amount of fabric.

Jessica 19:44 Yeah, it needs it for the support. Otherwise it would just be pulling and draping, sadly, on top of my shoulder. So it's nice that it's there. And it was kind of fun to knit. It's a great design feature, if you like that structured aesthetic. And I think that you see saddle shoulders a lot in what you think of as, like, traditional menswear sweaters. And it's also a really comfortable fit. If you have broad shoulders.

Karen 20:06 Yes.

Jessica 20:07 If you have big, wide set shoulders, having that saddle construction hold your sweater in place on your body better and accommodate your shoulder width.

Karen 20:17 Yeah. You don't get that funny feeling of something fitting you everywhere except there, which is, like, my least favorite thing with button up shirts. Like, it fits me everywhere but my shoulders.

Jessica 20:28 And now I just feel all bunchy and weird.

Karen 20:30 Yeah. As long as I never have to raise my arms above 45 degrees, I'm good.

Jessica 20:34 Or knit a saddle's shoulder.

Karen 20:36 Right. All right. Something with a very distinctive silhouette is the Dolman sleeve.

Jessica 20:44 Dolmans are interesting. I feel like this is like an old fashioned aesthetic. And by old, I mean maybe 80s, like when I was a kid and it went away for a long time, and then it came back fiercely in the last decade or so, it super dead. Dolmans got really popular. And I think it's because we're all into cozy fashion. So Dolmans have a sloping curve from the wrist, the underside of your wrist down to the hem of your sweater. You might also see this style referred to as bat wing, because if you put your arms out, looks like a bat or maybe a flying squirrel, because you're fuzzy and cozy and wearing wool.

Karen 21:26 As all the best squirrels do.

Jessica 21:28 Indeed. They know what's what.

Karen 21:31 I knit an accidental Dolman sweater once.

Jessica 21:33 Yeah, you did what's?

Karen 21:37 A drop shoulder.

Jessica 21:38 So drop shoulders have no armhole shaping. There's a square body, and then there's sleeves that are squared, too, and they're kind of attached. Whether the sleeves are knit as a tube and seamed on or they're picked up at the armhole and knit down like the Weekender from Andrea. Maori is a good example of a drop shoulder sweater, because the body of that sweater is basically a big square. And then you have little arms. So usually the body is really relaxed fit and the arms are much closer fitting.

Karen 22:07 So, like Joji Locatelli's Boxy Top.

Jessica 22:11 Absolutely.

Karen 22:12 It only has, like, a little bit of ribbing instead of full length sleeves. But if you took that and attached sleeves to it, that would be a drop shoulder. Okay. And then the last one is when I hear that people dread or love because they've been doing it for a long time. Set in sleeves.

Jessica 22:31 Yes. My actual favorite sweater has set in sleeves. The Sassy cardigan. But the process of setting sleeves are that they're knit separate from the body, from cuff to shoulder top. Like the whole thing is knit. Your body is knit with shoulder shaping in the chest or arm shaping, like a ready to wear cut fabric shirt would be. And then you block your pieces and then you seam them all together, and it gives your sweaters a very finished, tailored, structured look. And a lot of people like that.

Karen 23:02 I think the actual seam not even just the structured look, but it adds that little bit of actual structure. Once you've identified neckline, you've identified your sleeves. At that point, you're to the body, which feels like it should have a lot of options, but really just has, like, two options, but a bunch of different ways you can do those two options.

Jessica 23:26 Yeah, the body of your sweater is anything from the armpit down, like, below your arms. You've just got a body. That's true of your life as well. Guess what?

Karen 23:38 Above your arms, who can say?

Jessica 23:40 And really, it's a tube that can come in any number of lengths. You could knit a really cropped sweater. You could knit a tunic length sweater that comes down below your butt. Length is super easy to adjust in a sweater. And unless you have color work charts or like, complicated cables that you need to accommodate for, you're really just knitting more or less than the designer has told you to or suggested that you do. And in that case, the only thing you particularly need to keep in mind is that you will need more or less yarn to do this thing.

Karen 24:16 In most cases, if you want to adjust the length of something with color work or cables, assuming it's not nonrepeating color work or cables, you're really just committing to one more or one less repeat.

Jessica 24:32 You could do half a chart, maybe. Yeah, it comes down to aesthetics. Consider these things, but the choice is yours.

Karen 24:39 I'm just thinking about something like a cable that kind of grows out of the ribbon that's in the bottom hem of your sweater. You could make a choice, but if you want that to happen, you're going to need to break that off. At a point where those things line up, you may be committing to a full repeat and then waste shaping.

Jessica 24:57 Do it or don't.

Karen 25:00 Cables and color work aside, you can almost always add waste shaping or omit waste shaping or move waste shaping.

Jessica 25:07 Only you know where your waste is, whether or not you want something close fitting to it.

Karen 25:12 Totally. And that will make a big difference in how you feel about how that sweater fits and how you feel wearing it. Okay, I'm not knitting a vest. I'm knitting a sweater. I need sleeves.

Jessica 25:24 You sure do. Unless you don't, because I Super sometimes just don't knit sleeves.

Karen 25:30 And I'm like it's the best. I love it.

Jessica 25:33 That's totally what I envisioned when I cast this on. So sleeves have all sorts of shapes and sizes, and I think we could get into the minutiae of that in, like, a whole other episode. But knit the sleeves you like, you can easily adjust the length of sleeves, too. You could decide this long sleeve sweater is going to look much better with short sleeves on me or be more weather appropriate for when I want to wear it. You could make elbow length sleeves because maybe you have a secret damn the man tattoo on your shoulder and you can't wear that exposed at work. So give yourself some longer sleeves bracelet length, which is right above your cute little wrist bones or long sleeves or extra long sleeves. Knit them down over your hands and wear them cuffed. You can accommodate your stylistic preferences because people have a lot of feelings about how things feel on their arms as well as around their neck.

Karen 26:26 Yes. Okay, we have made it to the hem. What are options when you're picking ready to wear sweater? A lot of times we don't think about the hemline, but we have to. When we're making it right.

Jessica 26:39 You've got to stop your sweater body somewhere, and the hem is your finishing option. And there are lots of different ways you could do that, but often it's a pretty standard finish. Things get exciting and weird out there, but that's not what we're digging into today. I think most commonly I'm making this number up. 96% of sweaters have a ribbed finish at the bottom. That's a bold number, but I bet I'm not real far off from the truth. So this gives you an elastic, finished edge that should lay flat. Super common kind of basic, but basic can be good. It does its job. There's also Garter hems, where instead of, like, one by one rib, you're alternating knit and Pearl rose. It gives you a slightly different aesthetic. It's a little bit less stretchy, potentially, than traditional rib, but is still flexible. And it also gives you that relaxed, flat finish. I don't want to say a casual aesthetic because I don't know what your casual is, but it's different than a traditional rib.

Karen 27:42 If you want to get fancy, you could fold your hem so you would knit it twice as long as you actually want the hem to be. And then you would bold it under and do some kind of stitch or three needle bind off kind of situation. Depending on what your pattern says, you could whip stitch it for all it matters. That usually gives the sweater a little bit of extra weight at the bottom to weight it down. It's like the magnets in your shower curtain.

Jessica 28:06 Yeah. My. Sorrick that I'm knitting right now has a folded under hem, which I think will be handy in keeping the skirt of this dress down and not riding up. And being contrary, it'll keep it where I want it to be.

Karen 28:24 Now I want to figure out a way to leave, like, an open end so you can hide things. And you're folded over him.

Jessica 28:30 Oh, I bet you could.

Karen 28:31 Secret pocket. Yes. You'll be like, this is my. I don't even know what you would want to hide in the hem of your sweater.

Jessica 28:37 Not your knitting notions.

Karen 28:39 Poke yourself.

Jessica 28:42 There's also the split hem.

Karen 28:44 I've seen a bunch of sweaters with those lately. They're super cute.

Jessica 28:47 I have a couple of split hem sweaters. Split hems create visual interest and more open line at the waist. Or the hips depending on where it falls. But basically you stop knitting the body in the round at some point if it is knit in the round and the front hem of your sweater is a little panel of fabric and then there's a gap and then there's the back panel of your hem. And a lot of times the front panel is shorter and the back panel is longer.

Karen 29:13 That helps with the which side of my sweater is the front of my Sworder? Question it sure does. Alright, extra credit time. Let's talk about ease.

Jessica 29:24 Little peek into what ease is when you're talking about sweaters. We mentioned this in our episode about sock vocabulary and we kind of focused on negative ease because you want your socks to fit close. Ease as a refresher is the degree to which your finished garment is larger or smaller than your body. If it's bigger than your body, then it has positive ease. If it is smaller than your body, it has negative ease.

Karen 29:52 Sometimes a designer will recommend an amount of ease for you. They'll say something like Designer recommends two to four inches of positive ease. Or they'll say something like Designer recommends 14 to 18 inches of positive ease. And sometimes it's a style thing and sometimes it's a functionality thing. I have talked about my Sandoval sweater many times and I can't wear it because I ignored the designer's suggestion for ease. We didn't talk about this kind of construction, but it's basically a really long drop shoulder. The way that sweater is constructed is your sleeves don't actually start until the elbow of your actual human body. And so you have basically your yoke extends down to your elbow. So your upper arms are like inside the body of your sweater. I'm like doing a chicken dance right now.

Jessica 30:38 Glorious.

Karen 30:39 And that designer had recommended like 4000 inches of positive ease. And I was like, I don't want 4000 inches of positive ease.

Jessica 30:48 I want three.

Karen 30:48 I want three because I wasn't paying attention. And I can't wear it because it glues my upper arms to my sides.

Jessica 30:56 So it gives you adorable little Trex arms.

Karen 31:00 Sometimes when you're making that decision for yourself, it's worth considering why the designer is giving you that suggestion.

Jessica 31:07 Just things to think about as you're making your sweater choices.

Karen 31:13 What's on your needles?

Jessica 31:14 Jessica So I'm still working very slowly on my sore. But you know what? I've made a little bit of progress because I've had a weird number of Zoom meetings lately and it's perfect. Knitting the meeting kind of knitting because I don't need to look at it because I'm knitting the endless skirt. So that's a thing. But also I'm thinking ahead to spring MITS. Oh, and I don't really have a plan yet, but I find myself wandering around the shop a lot and touching yarns and thinking that would be a nice summer wait. Top. That would be a tank top. I would want to wear.

Karen 31:50 So it's really funny you say that because we just got a restock of the Julie Aslan Nurtured find, like the cones. And I was looking at it today thinking I think maybe I want my next project to be out of this, which is an interesting thing to feel when it's freezing outside, which it actually is because it's the lightest of light fingerings. It's gorgeous. Yarn planning knitter brain is starting to think about spring.

Jessica 32:15 That makes sense. We all know how long it takes us to make the things we make.

Karen 32:20 Yes.

Jessica 32:20 And sometimes that means you need to get a jump on the season. Lopey sweaters in July, tank tops in February, and that way they're ready when it's time to wear them.

Karen 32:30 Yeah.

Jessica 32:30 So we'll see what I decide on. But new projects are floating around in the periphery. What's on your needles, Karen?

Karen 32:38 Secret things.

Jessica 32:40 You're horrible.

Karen 32:41 That's it. That's all.

Jessica 32:42 Secret keeper.

Karen 32:44 Ask me no questions.

Jessica 32:45 I always ask questions and I just get invasion.

Karen 32:50 All will become clear in time.

Jessica 32:52 Fine. So it's March. Every time I look at the calendar, my perception of time is totally obliterated. So it's March, which means we are in the last half of the Make Good Stashdown friends we have until the end of the month.

Karen 33:10 And it's okay if you haven't finished your projects by then, but the stash down itself will come to an end.

Jessica 33:15 Keep Stash Busting We love seeing your projects, so we'll keep sharing pictures of them in our stories on Instagram and periodically grid posting them too. If you want to officially enter to win the $150 gift card that we're going to be giving away at the end of March, you just need to use the hashtag Makegoodstashdown on those posts where you share your pictures and make sure that you're following the Make Good Pod account and Scratch Supply Co account. And we will find you randomly in some state of knitting or project planning or whatever you've posted with that hashtag. And one of you is going to get lucky.

Karen 33:52 I feel like we will find you randomly. I mean, that's where we're at. It's not threatening because it's knitting.

Jessica 34:03 So now I think that's all we have this week.

Karen 34:07 You can subscribe anywhere you get your audio podcasts, maybe where you're listening to this right now.

Jessica 34:12 You can follow us on Instagram at Makegoodpod.

Karen 34:17 You can find the show notes and the transcript now on Makegoodpod.com, or maybe by swiping in some direction on whatever you're listening to this on.

Jessica 34:26 And while you're on that website, you can use our little contact form to send us questions. Or if you like to do it directly from your own inbox, you can email us Deerscratch@scratchupplyco.com and we will get your questions and at some point we'll answer them. Also, big thank you to our Patreon supporters cause y'all are amazing and we love you. It's fantastic how much you've come together as a community to support us. And help us keep doing this every week, love.

Karen 34:54 We'll talk to you next week. Bye.